As Good as Gold
From the Zhou dynasty (1046-256 BCE) until the late 16th
century (in the Ming dynasty), silk functioned like currency
or gold. Depending on their status as farmers or silk
weavers, households paid taxes in grain or bolts of silk;
yet even farmers often paid with silk instead of grain. From
the Warring States Period (475-221 BCE) on, the government
controlled the quality of silk, establishing set standards
for weight, colour, size, and type of weave.
The earliest silk weaves were plain, decorated at most with
very simple geometric designs. Very quickly, by the Western
Zhou dynasty (1046-771 BCE), artisans were already able to
weave and embroider multi-coloured silk. And after the
introduction of the drawloom in the fifth-fourth centuries
BCE, craftspeople could produce extremely complex figured
designs. For the most part, these luxury fabrics were made
into furniture decorations and personal items rather than
into garments. However, during the Tang dynasty (c. 618-905
CE), the Han elite, influenced by ethnic nomadic groups who
wore silk fabrics, also began making clothes out of silk.
Silk Reeling
MOCAP Visualization: GENSUBLIME
Tai Chi Performer: Master Lam Siu Mei
Silkworms spin silk to create cocoons around their
own bodies. The silk is harvested by collecting
these cocoons, unwinding the silk thread and reeling
it onto spools in a circular motion. These spools
are then attached to a loom where silk threads
intersect to weave beautiful, soft silk.
In Tai Chi Kung Fu, the term ‘Silk Reeling’ is used
to describe a kung fu technique and the rules of
engagement for fighting. The ‘Silk Reeling’
technique is like the unwinding and then spooling of
silk. Internal energy is emitted from the dantian
(central core) and moves in a spiral through the
waist, hips and legs, becoming the driving energy
for the whole body. This technique also incorporates
principles like the constant equilibrium between the
states of yin and yang. The circular energy of ‘Silk
Reeling’ can also be used to redirect an opponent’s
counter-moves against themselves, just like wrapping
them in a silk cocoon. Through this technique, the
opponent’s attacking moves are restrained and tied
up in a series of continuous circular movements,
rendering their attack and resistance useless.
Pillow End with Face of a Divinity
China, c. 550-590 CE
Embroidered polychrome silk, pearl, pyrite
H. 18.5 x L. 18.5 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Silk Purse
Central Asia, 5th century CE
Embroidered polychome silk
H. 6.5. cm x L. 5 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Fragment with Two Confronting Lions
Mid-late Tang dynasty (c. 618-907)
Polychrome silk
H. 86 cm x L. 86 cm
Chris Hall Collection
Imperial Dragon Robe (jifu)
China, Qianlong-Jiaqing periods (1736-1820)
Embroidered apricot silk with polychrome silk
H. 149 cm x L. 166 cm (at sleeves)
Chris Hall Collection
Slit Tapestry (kesi) with Dragons Chasing Flaming Pearls
Jin-Yuan dynasties, c. 13th century
Silk, gold and silver threads
H. 59.7 cm x L. 31.1 cm
Chris Hall Collection